Galicias mythic drink of blue fire

By Chris GriffithsFeatures correspondent

Rooted in Celtic tradition, the flaming queimada drink of Galicia, Spain, is believed to ward off evil spirits.

Standing proud as the last stop along the Camino Santiago (Way of St James), Santiago de Compostela’s majestic cathedral never fails to mesmerise visitors. Shrouded in the belief that Christ’s trusted apostle was laid to rest in the crypt after being executed in Palestine, hundreds of thousands of pilgrims are inspired to walk to the Spanish city’s stone streets from various points across Europe each year.

But besides the obvious Christian influences on the capital of the autonomous region of Galicia, an ancient Celtic heritage is also woven tightly into the region’s cultural fabric. The Gallaeci tribe arrived here more than a millennium ago, and the crumbling remains of castros (Celtic stone hill forts) lie dotted across the region’s rolling green hills. Gaitas – an instrument with a remarkable resemblance to bagpipes – can be heard bellowing through Santiago de Compostela’s main square outside the cathedral, while Celtic knots and other symbols are sold in souvenir shops.

But the most mysterious link to the region’s Celtic past is manifested in one of its culinary traditions: queimada.

Steeped in superstition, queimada, a traditional Galician alcoholic punch, is prepared in a hollowed-out pumpkin or a cauldron-like ceramic pot, and is believed to purify those who drink it through the powerful recitation of a spell.

The magic ritual is a vital part of the proceedings, performed by a meiga (witch) dressed to resemble a Druid priest. The spell culminates with a highly flammable mixture of ingredients being set alight, creating hypnotic blue flames that symbolically rid participants and their surroundings of evil spirits and demons.

Although the tradition is usually said to have Celtic origins, some believe it takes elements from many eras and influences in Spain’s history. Galician orujo (a strong pomace brandy) represents the tears of Mother Earth and the Galicia region; the sugar, dried peels and brandy date back to the time of the Arabs and the Moors, who brought these types of flavours with them from Africa; and the coffee beans symbolise Spain’s connection to South America.

After the spell is complete, the performer dramatically ladles the flaming mixture high into the air. As the flames burn, they caramelise the sugars in the peels, coffee beans and alcohol, creating a sweet and aromatic hot beverage that is then shared among the participants.

The first sip of the queimada is believed to banish evil spirits, the second sip will cleanse the mind of prejudice, while the third is believed to evoke passion within the soul.

Today, the ritual is mostly performed at private dinner parties and weddings, and can feel off limits to tourists. But those with a keen eye can catch glimpses of the mythic drink on a short walk around the city; queimada sets (that include the traditional ceramic pot and serving cups) sit tucked in shop window displays, and framed copies of the spell hang on the walls of local taverns. In addition, elaborate public performances are held within the grand settings of Santiago’s old city during important cultural holidays like Halloween and Noche de San Juan (Witches Night) on 23 June.

It’s unclear whether queimada is genuinely the remains of a mystic practice passed down through the ages, or merely a playful construction that helps to commemorate them.

Whatever the truth, the tradition certainly holds a magical and special place within Galicia, where it brings people together to celebrate their cultural identity.

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